I started my gym membership back up as it was getting annoying/ repetitive to have to drive to different bouldering spots.
With that, I’ve begun doing hangboard exercises (for finger strength), in conjunction with hanging on holds (to emulate hanging for trad).
Monday
Gym bouldering. I looked like a goober wearing harness and pro, but the point was to do mock placements and train hanging and finding good stances. Someone made an incredulous comment, but who cares. This is about emulating the positions and actions required for trad, because The Diagonal showed me my endurance/ hanging time can be improved upon.
Tuesday
Rest day.
Wednesday
Gym bouldering. Focused on endurance, doing up-and-downs, and repeats (2 up and 2 down, sometimes more). I ended with a few routes where I hung for 5 seconds at each move, going up-and-down. Finished on the hangboard.
Thursday
Gym bouldering (~ 2hrs.) + shoulder exercises and core.
Friday
Gym bouldering (~ 2hrs.).
Saturday
Rest day.
Sunday
Rest day.
…
What I’m working towards: My objective is to climb the Diedra UBSA in Costa Blanca, Spain in November, an 8 pitch, 5.10a PG13 mostly sport route. This trip and objective is sponsored in part by the American Alpine Club + The North Face’s Live Your Dream grant.
I first came across the Penon d’Ifach, the massive limestone block that emerges from the Balearic Sea, while researching climbing in Spain last year. The striking outcropping has stayed on my mind since.
The grant is designed to help you “level up” your skills in a specific and measurable way. For context, I started climbing more seriously in 2018, and had only done about 30 lead climbs (in the 5.10 range) when I applied. I chose this route because it combines skills I’m keen to develop: Multi-pitch climbing, traditional climbing, anchor building, and endurance (suggested time is 6-9 hours). The goal date allows for six months to incrementally develop my technique and know-how.
So far this year, I’ve: Begun leading on trad, increased time on rock (as opposed to the gym) bouldering/ sport/ trad, practiced anchor building, did one multi-pitch (albeit a short one) and practiced belaying from top.
The longer-term dream is to do big alpine climbs in the Wind River Range.
Goals for July:
- Days outside: 15
- Sport leads: 30
- Trad leads: 10
- Multi-pitch: 1
- Grade aim: 5.10+/5.11- sport, 5.6-5.8+ trad, multi-pitch 5.8-5.9 range
- Focus: Lead more routes, push grades (project a few 5.12s), easy multi-pitch routes, bouldering
- Stretch goal: Send V6 outside
Progress on July Goals as of 7/21:
- Days outside: 8
- Sport leads: 0
- Trad leads: 3
- Multi-pitch: 1
Goals for 2019:
- Lead 5.11c/5.11d comfortably (sport)
- Send a 5.12a (sport)
- Lead 5.8-5.9 trad comfortably
- Send a V7 outside
- 100 days of climbing outside
- Lead 300 routes on real rock
Progress on Year Goals as of 7/21:
- Lead 5.10+ comfortably (sport)
- Lead 5.6-5.7 trad comfortably
- Send V4/V5 outside
- ~31/100 days of climbing outside
- ~42/300 lead climbs on real rock
…
El Penon de Ifac photo source: La Marina Plaza
Feature photo source: centralrockgym.com
Aaron Gerry 