This was a really fun week as I spent most of it traveling and bouldering through Vermont. Included was a stay at a new campground where several impressive boulders are just now being cleaned and developed.
I enjoy bouldering for the solitude/ space it confers, but am also aware that it is not the most direct way to improve at leading sport. I may try to be more intentional about the ratio of climbing, maybe aiming for a 2:1, bouldering:sport balance. My main concern is I’m not able to work on endurance on outdoor boulders as easily as I can through other means.
I have begun mixing days with a run/ hike and bouldering and finding that the muscle and energy systems don’t really overlap, so I can do both without noticeable negative effects to either activity.
Stretching, foam rolling. Pull up work out.
Bouldering at Rumney. Sent The Whale’s Tail (V4+) and Ahab Calling (V3).
3 mile trail run around Kettle Pond in Groton State Forest.
Bouldering afterwards on The Gem boulder. Worked a few V2s and V3s.
Bouldering in Bolton, VT. Worked a V6, some overhanging stuff.
Hellbrook Trail up Mt. Mansfield, a 3.7 mile hike with 2,683 feet of elevation gain.
Bouldering at Smuggler’s Notch in the afternoon. Sent Primate (V3), Workout Traverse (V3), among other easier ones.
Rest day. Stretched and foam roller.
Bouldering at Lynn Woods. Worked Dean’s Problem (V6), Phat Lip (V4).
What I’m working towards: My objective is to climb the Diedra UBSA in Costa Blanca, Spain in November, an 8 pitch, 5.10a PG13 mostly sport route. This trip and objective is sponsored in part by the American Alpine Club + The North Face’s Live Your Dream grant.
I first came across the Penon d’Ifach, the massive limestone block that emerges from the Balearic Sea, while researching climbing in Spain last year. The striking outcropping has stayed on my mind since.
The grant is designed to help you “level up” your skills in a specific and measurable way. For context, I started climbing more seriously in 2018, and had only done about 30 lead climbs (in the 5.10 range) when I applied. I chose this route because it combines skills I’m keen to develop: Multi-pitch climbing, traditional climbing, anchor building, and endurance (suggested time is 6-9 hours). The goal date allows for six months to incrementally develop my technique and know-how.
So far this year, I’ve: Begun leading on trad, increased time on rock (as opposed to the gym) bouldering/ sport/ trad, practiced anchor building, did one multi-pitch (albeit a short one) and practiced belaying from top.
The longer-term dream is to do big alpine climbs in the Wind River Range.
Goals for July:
- Days outside: 15
- Sport leads: 30
- Trad leads: 10
- Multi-pitch: 1
- Grade aim: 5.10+/5.11- sport, 5.6-5.8+ trad, multi-pitch 5.8-5.9 range
- Focus: Lead more routes, push grades (project a few 5.12s), easy multi-pitch routes, bouldering
- Stretch goal: Send V6, send 5.12
Progress on June Goals as of 7/7:
- Days outside: 5
- Sport leads: 0
- Trad leads: 0
- Multi-pitch: 0
Goals for 2019:
- Lead 5.11c/5.11d comfortably (sport)
- Climb a 5.12a (sport)
- Lead 5.8-5.9 trad comfortably
- Send a V7 outside
- 100 days of climbing outside
- Lead 300 routes on real rock
Progress on Year Goals as of 6/16:
- Lead 5.10+ comfortably (sport)
- Lead 5.6-5.7 trad comfortably
- Send V4/V5 outside
- ~28/100 days of climbing outside
- ~39/300 lead climbs on real rock
Photo sources: La Marina Plaza