Training Journal – Climbing (Rumney), Bouldering (Lynn Woods), Climbing Workouts: 6/3/19 – 6/9/19

Spent the weekend at Rumney. Ahhh, awesome! I sent my second ever 5.11a, projected on some hard boulder problems, and generally feel good with how my climbing is progressing.

Climbing workout: Chest, shoulders, core exercises.

30 min. of step-ups with ~28# in a backpack.

Bouldering outdoors. Sent Pete’s Problem (V2) and Subway (V3). Worked on Phat Lip (V4)/ Green Haze (V7+), Dean’s Problem (V6), The Buttermilker (V7).

Mostly rest day. Pull-ups, scapular pull-ups, leg raises.

Climbing workout: Chest, shoulders, core exercises.

Climbing at Rumney:

  • Sport Lead (7): Oby-Won Ryobi (5.9+), Three Easy Pieces (5.11a), Squall (5.10d), Masterpiece (5.10a), War and Peace (5.9+), Frosted Flakes (5.7+), Victim of Love (5.8+)
  • Trad lead (1): Pee Wee’s Playhouse (5.6, crack variation)
  • Projecting: Bonsai Bulge (5.11c)

Climbing at Rumney:

  • Sport Lead (3): Bolt and Run (5.9), Romancing the Stone (5.10c), Only a Crow (5.10b/c)
  • Projecting: Cosmic Monsters (5.12a)

El Penon de Ifac – Parque Natural de Penyal D’Ifach

What I’m working towards: My objective is to climb the Diedra UBSA in Costa Blanca, Spain in November, an 8 pitch, 5.10a PG13 mostly sport route. This trip and objective is sponsored in part by the American Alpine Club + The North Face’s Live Your Dream grant.

I first came across the Penon d’Ifach, the massive limestone block that emerges from the Balearic Sea, while researching climbing in Spain last year. The striking outcropping has stayed on my mind since.

The grant is designed to help you “level up” your skills in a specific and measurable way. For context, I started climbing more seriously in 2018, and had only done about 30 lead climbs (in the 5.10 range) when I applied. I chose this route because it combines skills I’m keen to develop: Multi-pitch climbing, traditional climbing, anchor building, and endurance (suggested time is 6-9 hours). The goal date allows for six months to incrementally develop my technique and know-how.

So far this year, I’ve: Begun leading on trad, increased time on rock (as opposed to the gym) bouldering/ sport/ trad, practiced anchor building, did one multi-pitch (albeit a short one) and practiced belaying from top.

The longer-term dream is to do big alpine climbs in the Wind River Range.

Goals for June:

  • Days outside: 10
  • Sport leads: 40
  • Trad leads: 5
  • Multi-pitch: 1
  • Grade aim: 5.10+/5.11- sport, 5.6-5.8+ trad, multi-pitch 5.8-5.9 range
  • Focus: Increase experience with leading, push grades a bit (try a few 5.11s), easy multi-pitch routes
  • Stretch goal: Send The Buttermilker (V7)

Progress on June Goals as of 6/9:

  • Days outside: 5
  • Sport leads: 10
  • Trad leads: 1
  • Multi-pitch: 0

Goals for 2019:

  • Lead 5.11c/5.11d comfortably (sport)
  • Climb a 5.12a (sport)
  • Lead 5.8-5.9 trad comfortably
  • Send a V7 outside
  • 100 days of climbing outside
  • Lead 300 routes on real rock

Progress on Year Goals as of 6/9:

  • Lead 5.10a-c comfortably (sport)
  • Lead 5.6-5.7 trad comfortably
  • Send V4/V5 outside
  • ~17/100 days of climbing outside
  • ~22/300 lead climbs on real rock

Photo sources: La Marina Plaza, Ladd Raine on MP

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