Only got outside for climbing one day last week (mainly to climb indoors with friends, but I did run one day. It’s too easy for me to slouch in that category. Oh well. The aim is to run 2x per week, climb 3-4x a week going forward.
Chest, shoulders, core exercises.
Bouldering indoors @ Brooklyn Boulders with a friend who was visiting from China. As we reflected, we realized that we hadn’t seen each other since Nov. of 2017 (yikes)!
1.5h. Worked on a variety of grades mostly in the V4-V6 range. Mainly crimps and overhanging jug hauls.
Top-roping indoors @ Central Rock Watertown.
2h. Range of routes from 5.9-5.12. I noticed/ forgot that much of the route-setting is predicated on reachy moves and odd hand angles (especially in 5.9-5.10- range); felt odd. Props to JK (if I recall correctly), really good setter.
Chest, shoulders, core exercises.
Bouldering @ Webster Conservation Area (Hammond Pond).
Mainly projecting an uber fun problem, the Hermit’s Cave (V4). Starts deep in a cave on big jugs and toe hooks, moves out over a lip and a ledge, throw to a seam, and up to a tricky mantle. I was able to work the moves but couldn’t link it by the end.
Trail run and hill repeats (hiking). I’ve been slacking on cardio and running. The aim is to run/ hike 2x/ week, focusing on building leg strength and endurance for elevation.
AM: Pull up routine and core exercises.
PM: Chest, shoulders, core exercises.
What I’m working towards: My objective is to climb the Diedra UBSA in Costa Blanca, Spain in November, an 8 pitch, 5.10a PG13 mostly sport route. This trip and objective is sponsored in part by the American Alpine Club + The North Face’s Live Your Dream grant.
I first came across the Penon d’Ifach, the massive limestone block that emerges from the Balearic Sea, while researching climbing in Spain last year. The striking outcropping has stayed on my mind since.
The grant is designed to help you “level up” your skills in a specific and measurable way. For context, I started climbing more seriously in 2018, and had only done about 30 lead climbs (in the 5.10 range) when I applied. I chose this route because it combines skills I’m keen to develop: Multi-pitch climbing, traditional climbing, anchor building, and endurance (suggested time is 6-9 hours). The goal date allows for six months to incrementally develop my technique and know-how.
So far this year, I’ve: Begun leading on trad, increased time on rock (as opposed to the gym) bouldering/ sport/ trad, practiced anchor building, did one multi-pitch (albeit a short one) and practiced belaying from top.
The longer-term dream is to do big alpine climbs in the Wind River Range.
Goals for June:
- Days outside: 10
- Sport leads: 40
- Trad leads: 5
- Multi-pitch: 1
- Grade aim: 5.10+/5.11- sport, 5.6-5.8+ trad, multi-pitch 5.8-5.9 range
- Focus: Increase experience with leading, push grades a bit (try a few 5.11s), easy multi-pitch routes
- Stretch goal: Send The Buttermilker (V7)
Progress on June Goals as of 6/16:
- Days outside: 6
- Sport leads: 10
- Trad leads: 1
- Multi-pitch: 0
Goals for 2019:
- Lead 5.11c/5.11d comfortably (sport)
- Climb a 5.12a (sport)
- Lead 5.8-5.9 trad comfortably
- Send a V7 outside
- 100 days of climbing outside
- Lead 300 routes on real rock
Progress on Year Goals as of 6/16:
- Lead 5.10a-c comfortably (sport)
- Lead 5.6-5.7 trad comfortably
- Send V4/V5 outside
- ~18/100 days of climbing outside
- ~22/300 lead climbs on real rock
Photo sources: La Marina Plaza (El Penon de Ifac), the author