Training Journal – Bouldering (Hammond Pond), Sport Climbing (Rumney), Trail run: 6/17/19 – 6/23/19

Had a lot of fun climbing at Rumney, then a big hiking day (out-and-back to Mt. Washington via the Crawford Path). I’m doing more projecting on hard sport climbs, and beginning to see what my limits are, where I need to focus time and attention in order to improve my climbing.

Bouldering @ Hammond Pond. This is the closest bouldering to home, so it will probably be my main jam for awhile.

Worked a handful of problems in the V2-V3 range, and easier stuff including some traverses. The puddingstone is a mixture of slick cobblestones which polish easily and sharper crimps. Odd amalgamation.

AM: Trail run.

PM: Chest, shoulders, core exercises.

Bouldering and some easy free solo/ high balls @ Hammond Pond. Fingers weren’t feeling great so the problems I came to do weren’t working out. Moved to easier problems and some 5.3-5.6 crack climbs.

Rest day.

Stretching and foam roller.

Projecting on The Caged

Climbing @ Rumney.

7 leads: Arugala Arugala (5.9+), The Maltese Falcon (5.8), Oby-Won Ryobi (5.9+), Yoda (5.9), Milktoast (5.10d), The 5.8 Crack by the Road (5.7, trad), Hippos on Parade (5.8+)

Project: The Caged (5.12d). Was able to get through the first four bolts pretty smoothly, then the crux… Tried 5-6x, wasn’t able to figure it out.

Craword Path, out and back up to Mt. Washington. ~16 miles and ~5,000 ft. of elevation. Did it in 9 hours and 20 minutes (with rests), closer to 8 hours of moving time.

El Penon de Ifac – Parque Natural de Penyal D’Ifach

What I’m working towards: My objective is to climb the Diedra UBSA in Costa Blanca, Spain in November, an 8 pitch, 5.10a PG13 mostly sport route. This trip and objective is sponsored in part by the American Alpine Club + The North Face’s Live Your Dream grant.

I first came across the Penon d’Ifach, the massive limestone block that emerges from the Balearic Sea, while researching climbing in Spain last year. The striking outcropping has stayed on my mind since.

The grant is designed to help you “level up” your skills in a specific and measurable way. For context, I started climbing more seriously in 2018, and had only done about 30 lead climbs (in the 5.10 range) when I applied. I chose this route because it combines skills I’m keen to develop: Multi-pitch climbing, traditional climbing, anchor building, and endurance (suggested time is 6-9 hours). The goal date allows for six months to incrementally develop my technique and know-how.

So far this year, I’ve: Begun leading on trad, increased time on rock (as opposed to the gym) bouldering/ sport/ trad, practiced anchor building, did one multi-pitch (albeit a short one) and practiced belaying from top.

The longer-term dream is to do big alpine climbs in the Wind River Range.

Goals for June:

  • Days outside: 10
  • Sport leads: 40
  • Trad leads: 5
  • Multi-pitch: 1
  • Grade aim: 5.10+/5.11- sport, 5.6-5.8+ trad, multi-pitch 5.8-5.9 range
  • Focus: Increase experience with leading, push grades a bit (try a few 5.11s), easy multi-pitch routes
  • Stretch goal: Send The Buttermilker (V7)

Progress on June Goals as of 6/23:

  • Days outside: 9
  • Sport leads: 17
  • Trad leads: 2
  • Multi-pitch: 0

Goals for 2019:

  • Lead 5.11c/5.11d comfortably (sport)
  • Climb a 5.12a (sport)
  • Lead 5.8-5.9 trad comfortably
  • Send a V7 outside
  • 100 days of climbing outside
  • Lead 300 routes on real rock

Progress on Year Goals as of 6/23:

  • Lead 5.10+ comfortably (sport)
  • Lead 5.6-5.7 trad comfortably
  • Send V4/V5 outside
  • ~21/100 days of climbing outside
  • ~34/300 lead climbs on real rock

Photo sources: La Marina Plaza, Rumney photos via @ryan_rezendes

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