The big shift is re-focusing on training indoors and reducing time outside. I’ve been prioritizing writing and heading outdoors during the week simply takes too much time.
With that, my workouts center around 1) Endurance 2) Power Endurance 3) Strength + Power, and include specific climbing workouts, lifting exercises, and hangboarding. The cadence is two days of climbing, one day off.
Over the past few weeks I’ve been lazy and haven’t updated the Training Journal (oh well). But, I had started hangboarding a few weeks back and concurrently didn’t reduce the intensity of my other workouts. It severely negatively impacted my climbing (for example, I went to Rumney and was unable to do climbs I would normally be able to do; my strength was depleted). All of this to say, these are the reasons I’ve altered my approach.
So far so good.
Monday
Rest day.
Tuesday
Power Endurance: 4x4s (climb up, climb down, climb up, climb down)
7 sets, up to a peak set of a V4/V5 and a V2. Focus was on overhanging routes in the V2-V4 range. Arms got quite pumped by the end (they are supposed to).
Core:
- Weighted sit-ups: 15(35), 15(35), 15(35), 15(35)
- Hanging, raised legs, lateral: 4, 5, 5, 5
Wednesday
Strength + Power: Projecting. Mostly worked V4-V6 at Cambridge (known to grade harder). Focus on crimps, pinches. 13 problems total, multiple tries each. Did well sending up to V5. V6s require more work. Will push the grades more next time.
Lift:
1)
- Lunges (dumbells): 10(30#, 60# total), 10(45), 5,(60)
- Flies: 10(15), 10(25), 5(35)
- Shoulder Press: 10(40), 5(50), 2(55)
- T2B: 10, 10, 10
2)
- Weighted dips: 12(45), 10(70), 10(70)
- 1-Leg DL: 10(10), 5(20), 5(20)
- Back extensions: 10(25), 10(25), 10(25)
Thursday
Rest day. Foam roller.
Friday
Endurance: 20 minutes of climbing (2:12 min. on, 2:12 min. rest) on a circuit. 9 reps. Had to work in with someone else so halfway through ended up doing 2:30 reps going around the circuit twice for 60 moves, and longer rests.
Hangboard pull-ups:
- 4 finger deep edge (4FD): 1rep(10s), 2(10), 3(10)
- Pointer-Middle-Ring deep (PMRD): 1(10), 2(10), 3(10)
- Middle-Ring-Pinky deep (MRPD): 1(10), 2(10), 3(10)
- 4F Lockoffs medium (up to chest, 90 degrees, 120 degrees): 1(5,5,5s), 2 (5,5,5), 3(5,5,5)
- 4F Lockoffs small: 1(5,5,5s), 2 (5,5,5) 3(5,5,5)
Lift:
1)
- Bench: 5(135#), 5(165), 5(185), 5(195)
- Deadlift: 5(135), 5(165), 5(155), 3(215)
- Toes-2-bar: 10, 10, 10, 10
2)
- Weighted pull-ups: 5(45#), 3(70), 3(70)
- Front and lateral shoulder raises: 5(15), 5(20), 5(20)
- Weighted sit-ups: 10(35), 10(35), 10(35)
Saturday
9 mile hike, 3,800+ ft. of elevation: Mount Lafayette loop.
Sunday
Rest day. Foam rolling and stretching.
…
What I’m working towards: My objective is to climb the Diedra UBSA in Costa Blanca, Spain in November, an 8 pitch, 5.10a PG13 mostly sport route. This trip and objective is sponsored in part by the American Alpine Club + The North Face’s Live Your Dream grant.
I first came across the Penon d’Ifach, the massive limestone block that emerges from the Balearic Sea, while researching climbing in Spain last year. The striking outcropping has stayed on my mind since.
The grant is designed to help you “level up” your skills in a specific and measurable way. For context, I started climbing more seriously in 2018, and had only done about 30 lead climbs (in the 5.10 range) when I applied. I chose this route because it combines skills I’m keen to develop: Multi-pitch climbing, traditional climbing, anchor building, and endurance (suggested time is 6-9 hours). The goal date allows for six months to incrementally develop my technique and know-how.
So far this year, I’ve: Begun leading on trad, increased time on rock (as opposed to the gym) bouldering/ sport/ trad, practiced anchor building, did one multi-pitch (albeit a short one) and practiced belaying from top.
The longer-term dream is to do big alpine climbs in the Wind River Range.
Goals for August:
- Days outside: 8
- Sport leads: 10
- Trad leads: 10
- Multi-pitch: 1
- Grade aim: 5.10+ sport, 5.7-5.8 trad, multi-pitch 5.7
- Focus: Lead more trad routes, easy multi-pitch routes, bouldering
- Stretch goal: Send V6 outside
Progress on July Goals as of 8/25:
- Days outside: 3
- Sport leads: 0
- Trad leads: 4
- Multi-pitch: 0
Goals for 2019:
- Lead 5.11c/5.11d comfortably (sport)
- Send a 5.12a (sport)
- Lead 5.8-5.9 trad comfortably
- Send a V7 outside
- 100 days of climbing outside
- Lead 300 routes on real rock
Progress on Year Goals as of 8/25:
- Lead 5.10+ comfortably (sport)
- Lead 5.6-5.7 trad comfortably
- Send V4/V5 outside
- ~34/100 days of climbing outside
- ~46/300 lead climbs on real rock
…
El Penon de Ifac photo source: La Marina Plaza
Feature photo source: The author
