Big week! Sent my first V8 in the gym, my first V5 outside, and led a 5.8 trad route. Holy cowabunga, spaghetti monster!
Monday 2 hours of bouldering at the gym. Sent my first V8, a slabby balance-fest with a tricky finish. Tried a lot of other crimpy, slabby, pinchy problems. Finished with shoulder exercises, stretching and rice bucket work.
Wednesday Big day! Sent my first V5 outside, and my first project, an arete traverse starting from under a roof, using heel hooks and big reaches to crimps. Real fun.
Thursday Lower impact day. One hour of bouldering outside on “my” project walls: Cleaning lines, trying variations, did about 5 problems.
Friday 30 minutes of step-ups with 42#. Pull-ups, foam roller.
Saturday Big day! Two trad leads, including a 5.8 classic (highest grade yet)! We did a “multi-pitch” and I practiced setting up an anchor with gear and belaying from top. Easy bouldering in the afternoon.
Sunday Big day! Sent a fun V4 classic in Lincoln Woods. Took quite a few burns (8 or 9 attempts, maybe?), then tried my hand at a similar styled V3 on the opposite wall.
Kinda going with the flow here and climbing when I feel like it (generally about every other day), focusing on bouldering and trad (when I can). Mostly being pretty lax, but I am sending harder. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Monday ~2 hrs. bouldering. Focused on harder stuff, v5-v10 (v10 was mostly flailing after a few months), with an emphasis on overhang. Shoulder exercises.
Lighter week. I climbed 3x, 2x outdoors for full days. Haven’t run in a few weeks and step-ups with weight has gone down.
Monday Climbing at Farley! We did a mix of sport and trad climbing. I attempted a bouldery 5.11c and got shut down at the roof/ crux. We did 3x 5.9s and some 5.6ish trad leads.
Tuesday Short ~2.5 mile walk in the woods with dogs, carrying #42 on my back. Not too strenuous.
Wednesday Rest day. Stretching and foam roller.
Thursday ~1.5 hrs. of bouldering indoors, doing mock pro placements. This involved a lot of hanging and “placing” gear, with the aim of getting more accustomed to the longer time it takes to put in pro. Shoulder exercises.
Friday Rest day. Walk in the woods with the dogs.
Saturday Climbing at Rumney! It was my first time at New England’s sport mecca. It was a bit wet so our options were limited. We did some easier warmups (after trying a route that was dry, and ended up being a 12.c, i.e., we barely got off the ground), did a longer slabby trad route, a bunch of 9s and some 10s.
Sunday Rest day. Walked in the woods, explored some boulders. Did some easy problems, maybe V1. Stretching and foam roller.